The French Baker of Barra

What I am about to share with you is not really fair simply because my words and pictures could never do justice to the pure, heavenly magic that is the French Baker of Barra de Navidad.

"Ding! Ding!" this is the sound that we hear every morning around 8:15. It is the sound of the French Baker ringing his arrival bell as he makes his way through the marina on his little ponga full French goodness. And it means all that is buttery, creamy, chocolaty, cheesy, indulgent and deliciously naughty will be within arms reach out on the dock in minutes. The Wheaten Terrier on the boat in the slip next to us begins to bark and comes running up the dock. And soon people begin to emerge from their boats with sleepy eyes, hair in disarray and pesos in hand - knowing that if they don't get out of bed when they hear the bell, they'll miss their chance for boat-side delivery of the most delightful pastries, breads and quiches ever!

Soon we are all greeted with a French accented "Hallo" by Emeric - the French Baker of Barra. Emeric, who is originally from Bourdeaux and his wife, Christine who hails from Nice, met in Canada before moving to Barra, and they have been baking their French deliciousness for the locals and tourists of Barra de Navidad for the past 10 years. The variety of French recipes that they diligently prepare each morning have been passed down to them from friends or learned in culinary school - and they are perfection!

Emeric waits patiently as we eye his trays of baked bounty, and then when we finally make a decision he scoops up our selection, quickly places it into a bag and hands it over to us - the half-woken, eager pastry lovers. I've noticed that some pastries do not even make it off the dock and back onto the boats as they are devoured right out their little blue plastic bag. And in other instances, I've watched merry women literally float back to their boats holding a small stack of containers that contain a mixture of sinful pies that will be consume that evening for dessert. Our style - eat them slow, enjoy them longer and don't forget the coffee with the pastries, the wine with the pies (for Jason) and some nice cheese or spread for the baguettes.

In an attempt to practice a bit of self-control when ordering from the variety of croissants, danishes, baguettes, breads, quiches and pies that are simply presented in Emeric's ponga, Jason and I have come up with a rotation program like goes something like this: Buy a couple of pastries one day, the next day we order a loaf of multi-grain bread to last us a couple of days, then we skip a day, the next we buy a pie for dessert, the next we buy a baguette and then we start the cycle all over again.

Almond croissant, raisin danish and a decaf almond milk latte - a very yummy breakfast!

The almond croissant, my personal favorite. The dough is the perfect combination of flaky and doughy and the filling is so sweet it's to die for. To finish it off there is a light icing made from the almond filling and almond slices on top. Are you salivating yet?

 Turner hanging with Daddy as he enjoys his croissant and reads the local paper. 

Multi-grain loaf with raw honey and raw almond butter - the healthier breakfast option.

And for dessert....the chocolate almond pie. The chocolate is so incredibly rich, it is best to eat it slowly and in small bites. I'm noticing an almond theme here. 

But wait there's more.....

Emeric and Christine also have a cafe in town. It is small cafe with outside seating where people can sit to enjoy crepes, panini sandwiches and all of the Baker's other pastries, desserts and breads. It is the kind of place where you want to linger for bit and take your time savoring the flavors and enjoying the warmth of your coffee. Is it the kind of place where you may just want to grab the back corner table and dive into a good book or write in a journal. Is it the kind of place where you could easily strike up a conversation with those at the table next to you or sit in silence and observe the passersby. It is the kind of place that is perfect for a slow, no rush type of morning or for a contemplative, relaxed afternoon. It is just that kind of place....

 

La crepa con cajeta (The crepe with caramel)

It is the simplicity and consistency of the French Baker that makes the whole experience so wonderful. A ringing bell, a little ponga, a small cafe, the perfect dough, sweet fillings, warm bread, paper thin crepes and rich chocolate make for one of the most perfect and basic joys of travel - enjoying the food that is clearly made with love.

A Juice and a Prayer

For the past three years Jason and I have been dedicated juicers. With our handy dandy Jack LaLanne Power Juicer and refrigerator drawer full of fresh leafy greens, carrots, beets and more, we are merry juicers about five mornings of the week. I have always missed my juices when I travel, and it is near impossible to find - if any - a good juice bar when traveling.

Fortunately, Barra has got our juicing needs covered. On Barra's main street there is a tiny juice bar that is run by two women. With just a short ponga ride across the lagoon and a little stroll through town - we're there! In their small little juice bar, the soft-spoken, reserved women quietly and quickly work on preparing a small variety of fresh juices, smoothies, and sandwiches. Locals and tourists alike sit at a few small tables and chat away as they sip on juices or munch on sandwiches. There is a modest but beautiful Catholic church across the street and an array of cafes and craft shops nearby; making the juice shop a great place to sit, relax and do a little people watching.

Not a great shot, but these are the two juice ladies of Barra 

Jugos verde (green), naranja (orange), toronja (grapefruit), zanahoria (carrot) and piña (pineapple) are all on the menu. I always order el jugo verde that is made with orange, grapefruit, parsley, celery and cactus. They begin by juicing the oranges and grapefruit and then blend in the parsley, celery and cactus for a juice that is a perfect blend of citrus and sweet. Next time we go into town, I think I'll order el jugo zanahoria.  

Jason ordering un jugo verde for me and a mixed smoothie for himself (basically, they'll make a smoothie out of whatever they want - it's a surprise).

The drinks always come in these wonderfully large glasses.

Enjoying my juice as Turner is completely crashed out in his sling.

I always like to go into this church after we finish our juices. Upon entering the church there is the unique, pleasant smell of wooden pews and salty sea air. There is a beautiful mural of Jesus on the wall, and as I stand there for a moment to say a little prayer, the ocean breeze flows in the large wooden doors of the church providing comfort and calm. The last time I was in the church there was an older man sitting in the corner whistling. He whistled for several minutes, and his song filled the large, vaulted ceiling with a beautiful melody that not only didn't seem to distract the praying women at the alter, but seemed to encourage them to go deeper into their concentrated prayers. What better way to follow up the goodness of drinking a fresh, healthy juice with the goodness and peacefulness of prayer.

The mama workout: Exploring my options in Barra

Moving my body daily is a must! Having Turner in my life has sparked my workout creativity and I enjoy exploring my options. Up until my fourth of month of pregnancy I was running a lot. I stopped at 4 months simply because running did not feel right anymore. I switched over to fast-paced walking, hiking and fun interval cardio routines (lunges, step ups etc). I have done a bit of running post pregnancy at home (and I hope to do some more), but I really like the interval routines. And now that I am in Mexico I have finally settled in on a great cardio routine.

During this past week I have focused on early morning interval cardio routines. I grab the BOB stroller, place Turner in and head for the brick paved roads and hills that seem to wind endlessly around the huge golf course behind the marina. I like to go between 8:30 and 9:00 am as that is usually when Turner will have a little morning snooze. When he doesn't feel like snoozing he loves to look at the palm trees and watch me as I sing for him, talk to him and count my exercise repetitions in English and Spanish. And the one time he did cried, all I had to do was give him some cuddles and hugs and he was happy again when I placed him in his stroller. Hey....I'll do almost anything to keep him happy and entertained while I get to exercise.

Jason and I have worked out a great little system where we trade off watching Turner as the other gets 45 - 60 minutes to do whatever exercise they would like. Jason is a passionate runner, so generally that is what he will choose. I am a Pilates girl and I like to do some late afternoon Pilates at my special "Pilates spot" (there will be a separate post on Pilates a bit later) while Jason plays with Turner or keeps an eye on him while he naps. I've also been going to a great yoga class in town (more about that later as well). So, in order to get in my cardio workout I needed to find a time and routine where I could take Turner.  I could run, but because the roads are hand-laid brick roads it can be a bit bumpy for Turner in his stroller, and I don't quite feel comfortable with that. So, I've been doing a great interval workout where I do the following:

1. Fast-pace walking
2. Two sets of 90 -100 lunges up a hill
3. Skipping along a path
4. Side shuffles down a road
5. 100 jumping jacks (different varieties)
6. Three sets of sprints up another hill
7. Three sets of push-ups and tricep dips

I'll perform 2 - 7 (higher intensity) for 30 seconds to 2 minutes to get my heart rate up and then I'll do some fast-pace walking (moderate intensity) in between. I am hoping to add some step ups, I just have not found a great spot yet, and some jump roping. I have the jump rope, I just need to bring it.

All in all the workout takes me about 45 minutes and this past week I was able to do it (or some version of it) 3 times.

This morning I met up with Jason as he was finishing his run, and he joined me for the sprints and the push-up/tricep dips.

 Lunging Hill

Skipping Lane

Jumping Jack Look-out 

Side Shuffle Road

Sprinting Street

Push-Up Rock 

Happy, sweaty mama and content baby

La comida del West Star

Jason loves to cook (in fact, he's the full time chef on the yacht as well as the captain). And I, well....I'm not so crazy about the cooking, but I do like to bake, make smoothies and juices, raw food dishes and salads. As a result the two of us work pretty well together when it comes to meal time, and we love to explore making different things in the kitchen. On the yacht the kitchen is called the galley, and the galley on the West Star has been busy. We have been eating most of our dinners on the yacht. It works well for us and it is easier on Turner because he gets a little restless in the evenings before he crashes for the night. The markets of Barra and Melaque (the next town over) are full of fresh fruits and veggies so we figure - Why not do a lot of our own cooking in the evenings and focus on enjoying some of our breakfasts and lunches in town? The following are a few the tasty and colorful dishes we have made from the plentiful variety of fruits and veggies we are able to enjoy here in Barra.

Smoothies....

They are a big part of our diet. They serve as either a nice breakfast, a light lunch or a generous snack. We have fallen in love with the Mexican guavas, mangos, bananas, pineapples and oranges - they are incredibly sweet and oh so delicioso!

Guava (seeds left in), lime, banana, blueberry and peach nectar smoothie

Guava (seeds cut out), banana, pineapple and almond milk smoothie

Red beet, carrot, apple, pear, ginger and lime juice smoothie

This one was messy and knocked our socks off with its strong flavor. I liked it. Jason didn't. 

Some dinner dishes...

We made the fresh Salsa Mexicana for this simple dish with the tomatoes, onions and jalapeños we bought here in town. We soaked and cooked the black beans Jason bought in Mazatlan and made some nice brown rice to go with it. Oh...and don't forget the avocado on top. 

There is nothing better than super fresh corn tortillas. Hidden in little doorways around Barra there are little tortilla shops where you can by warm tortillas and fresh salsas. It's tempting not to just dig in right away and eat them all while they're hot. We wanted to  use our left over black beans for dinner, so we decided to make veggies tacos. We purchased a few chayote squashes, an eggplant and some fresh cilantro. The outcome were hearty veggies tacos that could satisfy any meat lover. 

The Tortilleria

+ Tortillas fresh off the press! 

+ Chayote squash

= The best veggie tacos ever!! 

Jason bought some beautiful organic red beets, and we decided to make a roasted beet and grilled asparagus salad with fresh romaine lettuce and goat cheese.

And lastly.....

Starfruit made it to our breakfast table one morning. It has a simple, clean taste - plus, it's pretty. 

As you can see - the eating is good here in Barra.

A few of Turner's first

In the one week that we have traveled to and have been here in Barra, Turner has experienced quite a firsts. He has had his first airplane ride, his first ponga ride, his first yacht ride, his first fiesta, his first swim and has had his first exposure to the Spanish language. Apart of our goal in bringing Turner to Mexico was to expose him to as much as possible (at his grand age of 11 weeks old) without over stimulating or overexposing him. We have taken the following approach: We will have one major outing a day, and the rest of the day will be centered around having nap and play time on the yacht. So far this plan has worked beautifully. Turner has been napping like champ, sleeping through the night, eating really well and has had some great developmental growth. During our various outings the locals have called Turner "Guero piqueño" (little white boy) and "Hermoso" (lovely). They have also told him that he is "muy bonito" (very handsome) and that "tiene mucho carne" (he has a lot of meat on his bones). Hey...we will take all the complements that we can get.

Guero piqueño with his daddy at a lookout point from the top of the hotel

Turner's first ponga ride and fiesta

Last Sunday we were walking Turner around the hotel and we noticed, across the lagoon that there was a large fiesta on the beach boardwalk. We asked around and learned that it was a fish festival, or fiesta that was celebrating the big fishing tournament that had happened the day before. Curious, we decided to venture over to town to check it out. Before we got on the water taxi, or ponga I put Turner in his sling (a piece of fabric that I wrap around my torso and place Turner in so that I can carry him hands free) to make him feel more secure and we gingerly boarded the little boat. As we sped across the lagoon, Turner - with wide eyes - tried to check out the passing water and then quickly tucked his head close into my chest in an effort to shield himself from the wind. 

At the fish fiesta there was a large stage where there was traditional mariachi and banda bands as well as traditional folk dancing. All around us there were stalls where vendors were selling fresh fish tacos with the catch from the fishing tournament the day before and a local drink called a michealada, which is mixture of beer, lime juice, Worcestershire sauce (it's really good, although I will not be enjoying one on this trip due to my number one job of feeding my little one). The boardwalk was crowded as people lined up for food, drinks and tried to peer over heads and around others to get a good view of the performers on the stage. Kids were busy chasing the candy carts, which were simply large wooden trays placed on top of wheel barrows, to buy bags of candy, roasted nuts, and fried coconut balls. Turner's eyes were glued forward as he tried to observe the busy environment around him. But, shielded in his sling he was fast asleep within 10 minutes of his first big fiesta adventure. Unfortunately, I do not have any pictures of the fiesta because we were caught up in it all and simply forgot to get the camera out.

Turner's first swim (well....really it was just a little dip in the pool)

We knew that our sun, pool and beach time would be limited this trip to Mexico because we have to be careful about the amount of sun exposure Turner gets. We already have to contend with staying on yacht and dealing with the reflection from the surrounding water as well as being out in the sun as we transport around on pongas and the dingy. But, a little pool and beach time is a must. Turner's reaction to his first swim was very calm as his senses were heightened with new sensations of sound, sight and touch.

A little video of Turner's first swim

¡Todo bien!

In Mexico they say, "¡Que te vaya bien!" (May you travel well), and all is well here in Barra de Navidad, Mexico.  Jason's boss was extremely generous and invited Turner and I fly down on her private jet. It was a small Citation jet and as just the two of us traveled in style (at 41,000 feet) Turner and I played and looked out the window until we arrived at Manzanillo Airport after our 3 hour flight. At the airport, Jason greeted us just outside of customs, and after our sweet reunion we were off and headed for beautiful Barra de Navidad.

Turner and I have been here for exactly one week and we're all settled in to our Barra life.We've now adjusted to the hot, sticky weather, got a little routine going and most importantly, we are loving being with Jason (Daddy) again. We were separated from Jason for exactly one month as he drove the yacht he captains, the West Star, from Newport Beach, to Cabo San Lucas, to Mazatlan and finally to Barra de Navidad.

Barra is located in central Mexico in the Mexican Riveria (basically it is between Puerto Vallarta and Acapulco). It is tranquil, sleepy little town of about 3,000 people. The seafood is great, the veggies are fresh and the mix of Canadians, Americans, and Mexicans makes for dynamic people watching. Barra sits at the end of the Bahia Navidad (Christmas Bay) and is encompassed by the Pacific Ocean on one side and a salt water lagoon on the other. On one end of the lagoon sits the town of Barra and on the other is a large resort called the Grand Bay Hotel and Marina, which has a very large marina where Jason's boat and many others tie up. We are separated from Barra by the lagoon, and in order to get into town we must either take a water taxi ride on a ponga or take the dingy from the yacht.

Turner and I will be staying on the yacht with Jason for three weeks, and if we decide to stay longer, we will be renting an apartment in town. In the following posts I will be sharing different aspects of our short time living here in Barra - what we do, what we see, what we eat and most importantly how we watch Turner grow.